The one that was fine (but needs to be moved before Agave ovatifolia moves it herself).A few years ago I planted a triangle of three Aloe aculeata on the front slope, all within a few feet of each other. They grew. All was well. Then two began to decline. It became obvious they needed to be dug up and re-rooted.
Plant #1, the biggest:
Plant #2, smaller and not healthier:
Basically, you pull off enough of the lowest leaves to expose some healthy stem. Chopping off some of the decayed stem (if there is any) often makes pulling off the lowest leaves easier.
From right to left, leaves pulled off until they and the stem are healthy all the way through:Thus, exposing enough healthy stem to allow for re-rooting.Plant #2:
Plant #1:
I've done this enough times it's now become routine. Aloes experiencing conditions too hot and dry, too dry, or too wet can sometimes lose their root system. Some Aloes want water only in winter, some only in summer. Some want almost no water at all, some can take a lot at any time of year. Sometimes they may arrive with a less than healthy root system, or maybe they were too small to handle conditions they can easily handle as a larger plant with a strong root system.
These A. elgonicas and an A. gariepensis are recovered and need to be moved before they get into trouble again.
These in the next photo look great but are still small enough to get into trouble again in an extreme location. Should find an intermediate location (more sun) where they can grow bigger without being overly stressed.A. broomii, erinacea, peglarae, hemmingii...
Besides Aloes, this re-rooting method works with Agaves and other rosette-forming succulents like Echeverias. Roots can sometimes take months to grow.
Happy capitata:
--Pull off the minimum number of the lowest leaves to expose enough healthy stem capable of rooting afresh. --Make a clean cut to the stem with a clean knife or clippers and let the cut callus over for a few days in dry, bright shade.
--Re-root in a pot or in a "nursery" bed of free draining mix or soil in a low-stress location--not too hot and dry.
*
Random flowers to end the post.
Leucospermum 'Tango':
Aloe striata:Rhodanthemum 'Casablanca':Garvinea Gerbera:Do you have certain plants you have to do something special to, to keep them alive and healthy?
I've taken similar action in dealing with agaves and aloes. I've tried the same thing with a few Mangaves but not always successfully. I recently ended up retiring 'Spotty Dotty' to the green bin but I'm still trying to save a 'Red Wing' that apparently had its roots eaten from below by a gopher.
ReplyDeleteBlankety-blank gophers--are you still having gopher problems? Grrr!
DeleteMangaves seem touchy when they are small and vulnerable, far more so than most Agaves. Here they seem to need a good amount of shade when small, but once they gain size, they don't like the shade anymore.
I was going to pick a favorite aloe from this post, but then ended up liking most of them. Probably most of my futzing is with the short-lived perennials - Helianthemums, Tanacetums, Lavandulas, Santolinas - If I don't start new ones every other year or so, they will disappear from the garden in a few years. I've already failed to propagate my favorite Tanacetum densum too many times and I suspect I will need to find a new plant at a nursery this year.
ReplyDeleteI would imagine with your quite cold and very wet winters lavenders would be quite a challenge. That you can grow them at all is impressive!
DeleteI had no idea Aloes have such individual requirements... not too hot, not too dry, water in summer, water in winter... I thought it was an easy plant to grow.
ReplyDeleteMy admiration for all who grow Aloe just sky rocketed.
Chavli
Some Aloes, the very common ones, are quite easy. Which is I guess why they are the common ones--they don't die. It's the more interesting ones that have been a little tricky--at least for me. Then the hybrids, with that "hybrid vigor" thing.
DeleteI had to laugh at "get themselves into trouble", naughty aloes! The capitata is gorgeous. Aloe peglarae that you have nonchalantly flourishing in the ground outside, I have to pot & put in the greenhouse over winter. And Pachypodium lamareii, some orchids, I could go on & on. I should just stick to my zone, but I can't help but push it a bit. The Rhodanthemum is so cute.
ReplyDeleteWell that peglarae is flourishing now, but it wasn't last year! If I had a greenhouse I'd undoubtedly be filling it with plants that can't handle our winters, too. (Yes there are some!). So, it's not just you pushing zones (or wanting to!). :)
DeleteI've done the very same thing several times this year. Annoying but necessary if you want the plants to live. Fortunately aloes are quite cooperative 😀
ReplyDeleteIt's more fun when the plants live!
DeleteExcellent article. I have always struggled to get aloe's to root. Will try your technique next time.
ReplyDeleteHope the post is of some help!
DeleteLovely random flowers at the end. Also, I learned a lot from your Aloe care tips. Of course, I don't keep them outdoors during the winter in my climate, but I have some potted ones, so your tips are helpful. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteHope it is of some use!
DeleteDepends whether the aloes come from the Great Karoo = summer rainfall.
ReplyDeleteOr the Little Karoo = shares my mediterranean winter rainfall.
Yes indeed! Then a few widespread in both winter/summer rainfalls (or so I've read) like A. ferox, and the ones from north of SA on the east side of the continent that will take quite a lot of water and the ones from Madagascar--some from extreme dry areas, some fairly rainy, and then there's the ones from the Arabian peninsula! A genus of hundreds. :0)
Deletelost a Ferox this winter - no viable top plant - wondering if the stem (and any viable roots) will leaf out - any thoughts ?
ReplyDeleteI've gotten new tops sprouting from a stem with a good root system. In my experience, yes it's possible it can resprout--depends on the health of the stem and root system.
Delete